Jamu power: Indonesia's cure-all elixir
The tonics cover nearly every infliction imaginable
The belief in the healing qualities of an ancient herbal medicine is as strong as ever in the Javan town of Yogyakarta
Tucked deep in the heart of one
of Indonesia's Yogyakarta markets, Ibu Siswu sits surrounded by bowls of herbal
pulp, pots of elixirs and tiny coconut shell cups. After mixing the pulp in a
brownish liquid she squeezes out the juice over a strainer. The result is a
bitter-tasting tonic called jamu, a traditional herbal medicine venerated by
Indonesians of all ages for its power to heal ailments or enhance one’s beauty,
strength or stamina.
A young man wearing a t-shirt
that reads, “They grow a mustache on you,” accepts the cup from Siswu and gulps
down the cloudy liquid. His friend has a harder time, and winces with each sip.
Most teenagers prefer modern jamu
capsules to the bitter tonics prepared by women such as Siswu. Her clients
pucker their faces as they ingest the medicine, which is best taken immediately
after preparation. Siswu scoffs at such cowardice: “Jamu should never be
sweet,” she says.
Jamu as disease control and fertility aid |
An ancient tradition
The practice dates back to the
time of the Buddhist empire that built Borobodur, and its association with the
royal family, which popularized the drinking of herbal tonics, has added to its
allure. Despite the loss of many traditions due to modernization, Indonesians
still cling to their belief in jamu’s transformative powers.
Jamu makers often are elderly
women -- Ibu being an honorary title meaning mother -- and jamu recipes vary
from seller to seller. Most are highly guarded family secrets passed down over
generations.
Other jamu makers in Prawirotaman
market sell the herbs used as the base for the tonics. One woman has packets of
powder that can be added to water for use in baths or skin masks. Her most
interesting novelty, however, is ampo, or “healthy earth,” which comes from the
nearby province of Bantul. Replete with high mineral deposits, the earth is
finely sliced, rolled, dried and roasted, making it a favorite snack among
older women.
More on Jamu
A few of the most common herbs in
Jamu and their uses:
- Turmeric = for detoxifying, to curb snoring, to ease menstrual cramping and reduce body odor.
- Galangal = for seasickness and sore throat. Singers often drink concoctions with this root to keep their vocal cords performing at top notch.
- Ginger = for detoxifying, morning sickness and to warm the body, improve circulation.
- Lemongrass = for alertness, to stop gum bleeding and repel mosquitoes.
- Tamarind = for constipation and to improve skin softness.
- Sulfur = for rashes and itchy skin. Also used frequently in beauty products.
Where to buy: Pasar Prawirotaman,
off Jl. Parangtritis, Yogyakarta
Cost: Rp1,000-5,000 (US$0.11-0.54) per glass
Cost: Rp1,000-5,000 (US$0.11-0.54) per glass
Editor's note: Like any food or
drink bought from unlicensed street vendors, it cannot always be guaranteed as
safe. The Jakarta Post recently reported on 8.23.10 that “multiple deaths
resulted from the consumption of Jamu in Jakarta”
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